Conditions banner

Conditions in Niagara glen vary from season to season, day to day, and to an extent by area and problem. Here you'll find info to help you make the best decisions to optimize your climbing while in the glen.


The glen has three-ish distinct climbing seasons: the cold season, the prime seasons, and the sweaty/buggy season.

Rain Beta

One of the most common questions climbers ask is if the conditions will be climbable after it rains, and, well... it depends, but there are some useful indicators to make an educated decision.


Conditions may also vary slightly by area. Bizarro World tends to remain wetter for longer than other areas. Whereas the Land of Oz often receives a nice river breeze that may dry and cool things off. I've also had days where the areas nearer the river were much cooler than those up near the cliff.


The vast majority of boulders in the glen are limestone and decades of climbing has resulted in some holds on the most popular boulders losing their texture and becoming very glassy. There are several problems that feel more difficult because of this, but still plenty of fun. Just don't be surprised when you put your foot on something for the first time and it unexpectedly shoots off... It's basically a rite of passage for climbing in the glen :)

There are also plenty of blocs in the glen which are notorious for seeping whereas others are almost always dry. Some of the usual seepy suspects are Love Boat boulder (Rigamortis, Orient Express), Seep vs. the Army of Darkness, Pika, and I don't think I've ever experienced the first hold of Midnight Express any better than damp. Conversely, the X boulder, Black cave, and Main Street are all overhanging boulders that are usually dry.